fe-tarot-fy-680-fpv-gopro-04

Drone kit -Tarot FY680 Ironman

Preamble

This hexacopter offering from Tarot has a great sturdy, lightweight design,  which has the added benefit of being foldable. 

The 680, or 650, also offers a great alternative/upgrade from the DJI Phantom, see DJI Phantom Frame swap for Tarot 650.

FY680

Complete kit

FY680 Parts
FY680 Parts

Body Plates

T -block

Tarot Φ16 Dia16 Folding Tripod T-Block TL68B16 For FY680 FY690 FY650 FY680PRO, £3.30 + £1.06

Gimbal

2PCS Tarot 2-Axis FPV Gimbal Camera Mount Suspension Hook for FY680 680, £3.04

Motor mounts

1 X GLASS FIBRE UNIVERSAL MOTOR MOUNT FOR SK450 XA650 FY680 ETC QUADCOPTER RC UK, £1.99

4x Carbon Fiber Universal Motor Mounting Plate for Sk450 Xa650 Fy680 Quadcopter, £3.78

Universal Motor Mounting Plate
Universal Motor Mounting Plate

Tarot Red Φ16mm Motor Mounting Plate Set for FY680 FY650 Multicopter – RH68B19, £4.93 + £1.40, or cheaper Tarot TL68B19 New multi-axis Motor Mount Black FY650 FY680 Spare Parts, £4.99

RH68B19/TL68B19
RH68B19/TL68B19

Tarot Black Φ16mm Motor Mounting Plate Set for FY680 FY650 Multicopter – RH68B20, or cheaper Tarot TL68B20 New multi-axis Motor Mount Black FY650 FY680 Spare Parts, £4.99

RH68B20/TL68B20
RH68B20/TL68B20

Tarot M16 Metal Carbon Motor plate Fixing Mount Set TL68B08-02/01 FY680 650 690, £5.03 + £1.51

Tarot Floating Type Metal Carbon Shock Absorption Mount Or TL68B33 TL68B34, $9.97

From Tarot TL68B33 Anti-vibration motor mounts

One of the most important build issues on a multirotor is reducing vibrations. The motors and props make a lot of vibrations and the flight controller does not like this. The flight controller has a number of sensors that are vibration sensitive. So if you want your multirotor to fly smoothly and loiter accurately you need to get those vibrations down. The problem is that the flight controller sensors need to be firmly attached to the multirotor to sense the movements. So you have a problem, you need to dampen the vibrations from the motors yet you don’t want the sensors to get too isolated, using too soft a spongy foam/gel, from what the frame is doing.

That is why a lot of people spend so much time balancing motors and props to reduce vibration at the source.

Another way is to use anti-vibration motor mounts. I bought a set of Tarot TL68B33 (black) and TL68B34(red) to test on my Tarot 650 Sport quad and see if they would really be any help. They isolate the motor vibrations from the arm by adding a little rubber bumper between a motor plate and the motor mount. It did not look like it would do much.

But much to my surprise the reduction in vibrations is quite significant. Vibrations on an APM flight controller are considered acceptable if you can reduce the x-axis and y-axis vibrations to below +-3 units and keep the z-axs to -5 to -15 units. It is not easy to get your vibrations to this low level. I ended up using the RCTimer anti-vibration flight controller mount to get my vibrations down to the maximum.

Then I added the Tarot anti-vibration mounts and the vibrations dropped to +- 1 and -9 to -12. These are really low vibrations and definitely help the quad fly better.

There are a couple of downsides in my opinion. In a crash the cnc aluminum TL68B33 mounts can bend and break easily. I have no way of comparing them to the plastic motor mounts but the plastic seem able to take more punishment. The metal anti-vibration mounts are expensive compared to the plastic ones. The TL68B33 don’t grip the 16mm arms as tightly as the plastic Tarot mounts.

Keeping the vibrations under control is important enought to me to live with the downsides.

Tubes

10mm:

16mm:

GPS Mount

Tarot Carbon Fiber GPS Mount For 16MM tube Multi hexa copter – TL68B13, £5.09 + £1.40

Bar end bungs

Blah

Folders

FY680 16M Carbon Tube Foldable holder set TL68B04-01 for Multi Hexa copter Tarot, £3.81

Landing

Tarot FY680 Hexacopter Parts Carbon Fiber CNC Folding Landing Skid TL68B11, £13.08

2x Tarot TL65B44 Retractable Landing Skid Gear for FY650 FY680 FY690 Multicopter, £23.56

Payload

3mm Fiber Glass large payload Adapter for TAROT FY680 680mm HEX copter Frame, £9.86

Motors

From Tarot Fy680 Pro Build…need advise on motor and propellers

Also,

An interesting video

One year on

The ESCs should be mounted under the motors, in the motor mount housing

lol can I ask you a question?????????????  Why the hell didn’t you just buy 3 sets of the Tarot 650 CF mounts for 30$ total?  I have 45amp ESCs on mine with those and they fit great!  Everyone ditches the plastic crap ones anyhow….  Here is a link ..http://www.aliexpress.com/item/TAROT-Floating-type-metal-carbon-shock-absorption-motor-mount-Red-or-Black-TL68B33-TL68B34/2031409140.html

brundog807

Yee, Those would have fixed my mounting issues. However i ended up buying another set of plates and made the rig 3 stacks and that gave me ample mounting space. Those motor mounts are a great idea tho. I still may implement them. Thanks
Sticky tape to stop motor mounts rotating

Useful threads

Thread 1

Newly Release: Tarot 680 Pro FPV Hexacopter in particular, covers motors, design issues, building tips and adding a third [or fourth] level.
Motors
540kv pancakes swinging 1255 props give me 14 minutes with my 8000 4S lipos. Payload is a 3axis IMP gimbal with GoPro.

5010-530KV Multicopter Brushless Motor, Features:

1. Machined aluminum front housing with four fan-style cooling holes that pump air through the motor while it runs.
2. Rear threaded mounting holes with both 16 mm and 19mm hole spacings fit a variety of applications.
3. Specially designed NdFeB magnets with high temperature rating for trouble-free operation.
4. High Temperature 140 C (356 F) rated wire is used for winding the motors to minimize the risk of burning up the motor.
5. High quality stator plates are epoxy coated on the inner surface to prevent winding shorts. 0.20mm stator plate id used on this motor 5010.
6. High quality shielded and permanently lubricated ball bearings are used to support the motor shaft in all our motors.
7. High temperature adhesives are used to secure the stator windings and prevent them from shifting and getting pinched or shorting out .

Motor size: Ф50*10mm
Shaft size: Ф5.0mm
Weight: 80g
KV(rpm/v): 530
Battery: 2-6Li-Po
ESC: 10A

I went with a known setup and bought the sunnysky v3508 580kv and 12x4CF props. And on 2x4s 5000mAh batteries and a GoPro, flight times over 20min have been achieved!
and
Putting a spreadsheet together for my 680 Pro build and had a question about choosing motors. I did some research and found that its recommended for 2:1 thrust for weight. I was looking at the SunnySky v3508 380kv motors on 4s with 12×3.8 props. The motor is specced with different thrust levels throughout the power band %, I’m a little confused as to which % thrust I use to calculate for the 2:1? I can already see that my 3700g AUW is too much
You will barely have power to lift off with 380: you need 15″ and 6s
HexTronic DT700, page 9:

Why is everyone ignoring DT700 motors? Sure, they are cheap but the cost to efficiency ratio with 12″ props surpasses any sunnysky or Tmotor. Shorten the shaft, and replace with quality bearings when needed. I use them on my PRO and they are fantastic, maybe I’m the only guy here flying 3s or maybe it’s just that you guys have more money to burn than I do…

DT700
APC 12X3.8
2 x 5000mAh 3s NanoTech
F30 SimonK escs
3 kilograms AUW
20 minutes

However, from the DT700 product page, while the motor does indeed run from a 3S battery:
David, this motor is rated for 11.1V which is a 3 cell Lipo. You may get away with a 4S, especially if you don’t run the throttle up all the way. With a 4s the 11×5 would probably work but would be a bit large in my experience. I’m running a quad with 3s 2700mah battery and 10×4.5 gemfan props. Its a pretty good combination.
the motors are not intended for a multirotor:
David, I would honestly not recommend this motor. This motor is designed for airplanes and it is a poor pair for multi-rotors. I spent countless hours balancing and rigging these motors. Not worth it.
Design issues
Page 10 – broken clips:

I’ve been flying this platform for a few weeks now and I believe I’ve spent enough time with it to give my opinion.

It’s an overall decent frame for the price, but with some cheap parts that break easily. So expect frequent maintenance.

This part broke after a few weeks and maybe 20-30 folding/unfolding of the arms. Tarot was nice enough to include a spare in the kit, but now another one is showing wear and is threatening to break. I need to get a bag of those…

Overall design could be improved. For one thing, it’s a pain to assemble. It’s because of the way the two side arms (the ones that don’t move) fit with the rest of the frame. Top and bottom plates, metals clamps that hold the arms, and the arms themselves are all held by the same screws, so you can’t assemble any single part at a time, it all has to happen at the same time. It takes an extra set of hands. Make sure you get it right the first time…

I didn’t…

Because I got the hood a week late, after I finished putting the frame together. But the hood only fits one way, so if you but the top plate facing the wrong way, the hood will face backwards. Cosmetic, but also a possible issue for orientation confusion.

One last design issue is with the way they have the arms pivot. it’s just two tiny screws, one at the top and one at the bottom. Which means opening and closing the arms will loosen the screws and they may fall off. I haven’t had any issue so far, but I check those screws regularly just in case. Thread lock could help. Or maybe i’ll mod it at some point.

Build tips
Page 10 – use top plate on the bottom:
Quote:
Originally Posted by WL Production View Post
Overall design could be improved. For one thing, it’s a pain to assemble. It’s because of the way the two side arms (the ones that don’t move) fit with the rest of the frame. Top and bottom plates, metals clamps that hold the arms, and the arms themselves are all held by the same screws, so you can’t assemble any single part at a time, it all has to happen at the same time.

What I did was to attach the folding arms first to the bottom plate(I used the top plate on the bottom, I’ll get to why below).
Fold them in and use something flat like cardboard, piece of wood or whatever you have lying around and place it under the two arms and tape it to the arms.
Now you can place the middle or non-folding arms onto that to support it and keep it in place.
To keep the alum tube holders in place, I used some thin double sided tape to keep the from moving. Makes putting together much easier.

Quote:
Originally Posted by WL Production View Post
Because I got the hood a week late, after I finished putting the frame together. But the hood only fits one way, so if you but the top plate facing the wrong way, the hood will face backwards. Cosmetic, but also a possible issue for orientation confusion.

This is one reason why I used the top plate on the bottom. I’ll get to the other reasons later.
I can now use the bottom plate to attach the hood in the correct orientation, no need to drill holes.

Quote:
Originally Posted by WL Production View Post
One last design issue is with the way they have the arms pivot. it’s just two tiny screws, one at the top and one at the bottom. Which means opening and closing the arms will loosen the screws and they may fall off. I haven’t had any issue so far, but I check those screws regularly just in case. Thread lock could help. Or maybe i’ll mod it at some point.

If this does become an issue, you can use a single longer bolt with a lock nut.
I would drill the holes out with a 3.17mm (1/8) bit and use an M3 (3mm) x 30mm bolt with lock nut.

and

Just finished the majority of mine, still a few accessories to mount like gimbal, FPV gear etc..

Also building an identical one for a customer, pure coincidence NOT. When he brought the frame in, I liked it so much I had to have one

Ok, onto the build.

You’ll notice in the pics that I mounted the top plate on the bottom.
I did this for a few reasons.
1/ So I can mount the hood if I ever decide to while keeping the battery connection points at the back. This is only critical if you intend to add a camera gimbal like I will be.
2/ Since I’m using an FC with a compass, I needed to keep all power wiring as short as possible to reduce or keep EM fields as low as possible and I didn’t want to mount all the ESC’s on the top YUK.
So all the ESC’s are now mounted at the bottom between the landing gear (see pics). This keeps it nice and tidy while keeping the EMF as low as possible and as far as possible away from the FC.
3/ It’s now easy to access the ESC’s if I need to and I don’t have a gaping big hole in the top.
Plus now there is a nice carbon fibre plate on top instead of the flat black fibreglass one.

Putting the ESC’s in the middle is not only better for the EMF, but it keeps the ESC’s away from possible damage under the motor and it’s much better for the ESC’s to keep the power wires as short as possible(unless you add caps which adds more clutter). Lengthening the power wires can damage or shorten the life of the ESC’s which in turn can cause a crash.

Another small mod I did was on the alum tube holders.
The ones on the inside. I moved them in so they now fit over the landing gear holes just like the outsides ones do. The bolts in the kit are just long enough to reach, but I used 30mm ones instead for a better hold.
This also allows me to cut the tube shorter (pic2 shorter arms, using original holes for zip ties) giving me extra room in between the plates for wiring.

The motor wires are all twisted (again for lower EMF) and inside the arms.

That’s all the mods I did that I can think of right now.

Here’s the specs

FC- AMP 2.5, GPS, telemetry etc..
Minum OSD using AMP telemetry data for OSD
Motors- RCTimer 5010 530kv
Props- RCTimer 1355 carbon fibre
ESC’s- HK F30A simonK flashed for now until my 40A ones turn up which can to 6S. BTW, no timing or stutter issues with the latest simonK FW and these large pancake motors.

Flew it today for ~15min on a 4S 5000mAh and she flies pretty nice with default settings on the FC, but needs some tuning when time permits.

Third/Fourth level
As has been said, it’s really not that difficult to add a level. I did it with the 650 quad frame which is notoriously tight on space.
I got an extra 650 plate and all I did was use standoffs to mount it to the plate below it, but you could do the same with a DiY plate.I experimented with mounting the Battery on the upper and lower levels, it didn’t make any difference to handling or flight times

I have bought an extra bottom plate (set with both plates), and there are holes on both so you can mount spacers between them, so you have an extra carbon layer ( 3 layers total carbon – pcb – carbon).

This way you have plenty room if you want to mount batteries or anything else on top.

Thread 2

Difference between FY680, FY690S,  and FY680Pro:  article from Helipal – Tarot FY680 Pro Hexacopter Set:

Let’s learn about the history of the Tarot FY series. It was the first model – FY680 had a huge success, then Tarot decide to upgrade it and changed the name to FY690S, 95% is identical with the FY680, the only difference is the Motor Mount, it has changed from Carbon Fiber and Metal Motor Mount to a One-Piece Plastic Motor Mount.

Later, Tarot designed upgrade on the FY690S and called it FY680 Pro, base on popular demand they changed one of the Carbon Fiber Deck to an Integrated PCB Board, user can solder the ESC’s power cable directly onto this PCB board, this saves a lot of heavy and messy cables, they changed the motor mount again to smaller and lighter plastic, and they changed the legs lock mechanism, now it’s tougher than the old one. Tarot also change the way to mount the battery, they put the battery on a movable mount to balance C.G., because when you put a Tarot T-2D gimbal in the front of the drone, you need to balance the weight with battery, now you can save the money to buy the movable mount, it is now included.

In short, FY680 Pro has an integrated PCB upper deck for easier wiring, new motor mount, new landing skids and a movable battery mount. FY690S, on the other hand is a standard Heaxcopter frame with both Upper and Lower deck as Carbon Fiber, that’s all for the difference.

Motor recommended:
We recommend 4S 14.8V, Tarot 4006 620kv and 13″ prop, or even more powerful config like 6S 22.2V Li-Po, Tarot 4008 380kv motor 13″ propeller, this can carry payload up to 1.5kg to 2kg, that means Mini DSLR or GoPro are no problem. Remember that if you put the camera in front, please adjust the battery’s position at the rear to have best C.G.
Hardware circuit:
Tarot Hardware diagram
Tarot Hardware diagram

Thread 3

Another interesting article is Yet another Tarot FY680 Pro build log, which mentions the size of the props vs the motor and quick release/detach prop hubs:

If I could order a different setup, I would have gone for the longer arms and 15″ props. I would have gone for the 5308-580kv SS motors. Which will give the same thrust but uses only 3.1A, not the 4.2 amps i will be using!

and

Regarding props – there is a current discussion at “Tarot 690S Build Log” (which I have contributed in the past) talking about props. I’m using the 580kv motors and 13×5.5 props. I’m using Foxtech and RCTimer CF props. For the 700kv motor it appears that the 11″ or 12″ get the longest flight times, due to the higher kv value – the faster the motors spin the smaller the prop you will want to use. I tend to rely more on actual field test accounts from other pilots verses spec charts (ie. import as reference only). Which ever prop you use make sure you check the heat of the motor or ESC after a flight. If the either feels hot (not warm) to the touch, then you are either using too large or too small of a prop.

Also these adapters are the best little invention I’ve seen it quite a while “http://www.foxtechfpv.com/propeller-quick-detach-cwccw-p-1303.html“. They allow you to easily and quickly mount props and also try different sizes of props. I’ve been using them since they came out last year and highly recommend them.

Do the ESCs burnout, if they are placed under the motors, as intended by Tarot, en lieu of being placed in the center plate? From page 4:

I’ve read you will burn up your ESCs faster by having longer battery wire length.

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1406786

From page 5 (note that the motors used are 3508, not 5308 as above):

I also am looking to build a 680 Pro w/o extending the arms and using a SS v3508 580 KV motor. Max prop size is 13″, but I’ve seen people say to go 1″ above manufacturer’s suggestion.

Thread 4

An absolutely indispensable read is  “Tarot 690S Build Log“.

Thread 5

My ideal

I believe that I want a FY680 Pro with the 4 leg landing gear, and top (3rd level) plate [TRCH68B06?] (to cover the hole in the top) [or use the bottom plate for the top plate (see building tips above)], or use a duplicate bottom plate, with the vibration proof motor mounts, TL68B33, or the closed TL68B19/20, and the inverted battery plate TL68B14

Build videos

Tarot FY680 Build – Frame Assembly – eRC

Tarot FY680 Build – Electronics – eRC

Tarot FY680 Upgrade – Foxtech Retracts – eRC

Tarot FY680 Upgrade – FPV with iOSD mini – eRC

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3 thoughts on “Drone kit -Tarot FY680 Ironman”

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