Building a Wilson II in Bangkok

Preamble

Looking into getting parts for the Wilson II 3D printer in Thailand.

See also:

Sources

  • Thai Robo Shop (email)
  • JWH Hightech Garden LP, 542,542/1-2, Charoen Nakhon Road,, Khlong Ton Sai, Khlong San, Bangkok 10600, 02 108 5881, Website, Email: jwh3dprinting@gmail.comjwh2015@outlook.co.th
  • Print3Dd 3D Printer Shop, 89/19 โครงการ เจ.เอส.พี. เพลส4, ถนนกัลปพฤกษ์, บางบอน, Bangkok 10150, 085 366 7023, Website, Email: sales@print3dd.com
  • Pointless (no email, no website) – 3D Printing Thailand, ถนน นัมเบอร์วัน-ราม 2 Khwaeng Dok Mai, Khet Prawet, Krung Thep Maha Nakhon 10250, 02 138 2863, Website, Email:
  • Septillion Co., Ltd., ถนนราชพฤษ ตำบลบางแวก อำเภอภาษีเจริญ Krung Thep Maha Nakhon 10160, 02 865 2688, Website, Email: info@septillion.co.th
  • In2Real3D 3D Printer, 172 Maha Chak Rd, Khwaeng Wat Thepsirin, Khet Pom Prap Sattru Phai, Krung Thep Maha Nakhon 10100, 02 223 4435, – this shop was closed, but I spoke to the owner, by telephone who said to contact though Line, Website, Email: wiwat.ar@gmail.com
  • Bangkok Blue Ocean Co.,Ltd., 705/39 ถนนอนามัยงามเจริญ แขวงท่าข้าม เขตบางขุนเทียน Krung Thep Maha Nakhon 10150, 081 733 7263, Website, Email: thaibbocean@gmail.com
  • ExtraBot 3D Printer Thailand, 9/607 ม.8 ซ.กระทุ่มล้ม 6 ถ.พุทธมณฑลสาย 4, ต.กระทุ่มล้ม อ.สามพราน, Nakhon Pathom 73220, 087 347 0680, Website, Email: suradaj@gmail.com
  • X3D | 3D Printing Solutions, 76 Moo 11 Phutthamonthon 5 Road, Raiking, Sampran, Nakhon Pathom 73210, 087 509 0541, Website, Email: sales@x3dprinting.co
  • Protothai (3D 4X100 Co., Ltd.),7 Kanchanaphisek Rd, Khwaeng Dok Mai, Khet Prawet, Krung Thep Maha Nakhon 10250,02 138 2863, Website, Email: info@protothai.com
  • NTT Pro 3D Printing, 0943246666, Website, Email: nttpro@hotmail.com
  • 3D PRINTER CoLiDo Thai, 335/22 อาคาร ไพ ร์ ม ส เต ท ซอย ผูก มิตร, Srinagarindra Rd, Nong Bon, Prawet, Bangkok 10250, 086 306 1452, Website, Email: 3dprinter@icst-group.com

Kits and Parts

Complete kits

The complete kit from MJRice is Reprap Wilson II complete 3D printer kit, $485 (฿16,703.40 THB)

Printed Parts

On eBay

Reprap Wilson II 3D Printer Required & Recommended Wilson2 Printed Parts, Newest for $69.99 + $16.00 (p + p) (£54.57 + £12.48 (p + p)), approximately £67 in total. 38 pieces.

Wilson II Printed parts from 3DPrinterHut
Wilson II Printed parts from 3DPrinterHut

Kit Reprap Wilson II 2 3D printer PLA + ABS Proteinas Reprap Printed prusa i3, €59.99 (£51.11) + €25.99 (p + p to Thailand) (€24.99 (p + p to the UK) (£21.06)), approximately £71 in total. 39 pieces.

Wilson II Printed parts from HTA3D
Wilson II Printed parts from HTA3D

Note: There are some important differences between the HTA3D and 3DPrinterHut printed parts:

2x Z motor holders - Reinforced version (PLA)
2x Z motor holders – Reinforced version (PLA)

Whereas, 3DPrinterHut only offer the parts in white and in ABS (no PLA), without the reinforcing.

In my opinion these differences make for a superior build when using HTA3D’s parts, so well worth the additional £4.


In order to get some quotes for the parts if sourced locally, in Thailand, I fired off this email to a number of 3D shops around Bangkok, which are listed above,

Hi,

I would like to build a Wilson II 3D printer.
How much would it cost for you to print the plastic parts for me? The STL files can be found on Github/mjrice.
The quantities of each of the parts are listed on Wilson II BOM, under Printed Parts:

Printed Parts

Piece Quantity needed Model file
X end idler 1 X-end-idler.stl
X end motor 1 X-end-motor.stl
X carriage 1 X-carriage.stl
X belt tensioner 1 X-tensioner.stl
Y end idler 1 Y-idler.stl
Y belt tensioner 1 Y-tensioner.stl
Y end motor 1 Y-motor.stl
Y table mount 1 Y-table-10.stl
Z motor holder, left 1 Z-motor-left.stl
Z motor holder, right 1 Z-motor-right.stl
Z top frame, left 1 Z-top-left.stl
Z top frame, right 1 Z-top-right.stl
Z lower corner brace, front/right, back/left 2 Z-lower-brace-1.stl
Z lower corner brace, front/left, back/right 2 Z-lower-brace-2.stl
Y frame brace 4 Y-brace.stl
Idler bearing guide (two parts makes one guide) 4 Belt-guide-624.stl
Extruder body / idler / hot end clamp set 1 Extruder-direct-drive.stl
Servo mount 1 servo_mount.stl
Servo endstop mount 1 Servo-endstop-holder.stl
Extruder fan duct 1 Fanduct-e3dlite6.stl
Electronics frame mount (for RAMPS) 1 Ramps-mount.stl
Filament spool support (two pieces) 1 Filament-mount.stl
SMART display frame mount (one piece) 1 Smartlcd-mount.stl
12V PSU frame mounting bracket 2 Psu-mount.stl
Power switch mount 1 Power-switch-mount.stl
How much for the parts to be printed in ABS?
How much for the parts to be printed in PLA?
Is the price the same for any colour? I would like green, preferably.
How long will the order take to process?
Many Thanks in advance.
Best Regards,
The initial replies that came back quoted figures in the range of 10000 B$ to 17000 B$ (£200 to £340!!!!). Most incredible. Then I received a quote for 22500 baht (£450)!
For your project the total print time for all parts is around 75 hours which comes to a total of 22,500 THB (including VAT and shipping)
Later, as I had not received a reply to my initial emailed query, I visited the 3D print shop, JWH Hightech Garden LP, near Saphan Taksin – I was told that they had not replied as they thought I wanted to build a model (I don’t think they quite grasp RepRap). After carefully explaining what I required, and stating that I had suppliers of kit for 3500 baht already, I received an even higher (and laughable) estimate of between 68000-100000 baht..! Quite unbelievable.
These were the responses:
  • ThaiRoboShop: 10445/13900 baht PLA/ABS:
  • JWH Hightech Garden LP: an incredible 68000 – 100000 baht for PLA only
  • Print 3Dd – no reply
  • 3D Printing Thailand – no contact details
  • Septillion: 17715 baht.
  • In2Real3D 3D Printer – Told me to contact Kongz@hotmail.com
  • Bangkok Blue Ocean Co.,Ltd: 3000/5000 baht PLA/ABS
  • Extrabot – no reply
  • X3D: 22500 baht
  • ProtoThai – email address rejected
  • NTT – no reply
  • 3D Printer CoLiDo – only sell complete printers
It looks like HTA3D on eBay is the way to go. For international shipping it is possible to bypass eBay, by going to their website directly, which is €3 cheaper. I did have one local supplier, Bangkok Blue Ocean Co.,Ltd., who quoted me 3000 B$ for PLA and 5000$ for ABS.

Printing materials

Note on PLA parts in a hot room: ABS or PLA for structural printed parts? Nylon has been suggested for use in a high temperature scenario. My room, can reach 50°C some days. From more information on nylon, see 3D Printing Filament Guide 2017: ABS vs PLA vs many materials
When a 3D print requires to be very strong, Nylon is a good option. It usually prints in white and is available in different formulas. Taulman, for instance, makes Nylon 618, Nylon 645 and Bridge Nylon, which apparently has great bridging capabilities. Nylons print at a relatively high temperature (245 – 250 degrees Celsius) but – contrary to what you might think – print odorless.

Polyamide, also known as Nylon, is a popular synthetic polymer used in many industrial applications. With nylon 3D printer filament, you have a cost-effective plastic that’s strong, light, flexible, and wear resistant. It’s also less brittle than PLA or ABS. Also, it’s stronger and more durable than the two.

Nylon 3D printer filament can be used in a variety of applications. They include machine parts, containers, tools, consumer products, and toys. Oh, and another thing: you can use fabric dye to color it. 3D printing nylon is relatively easy if you keep your spools dry. Otherwise you can run into problems. Since Nylon filament quickly absorbs humidity from its environment (in less than one day), it should be protected from humidity while in storage.

But it doesn’t stop at that. 3D printer filament manufacturer Taulman has developed different types of nylon filament. Depending on the intended application of the 3D printed object, it is up to the user to decide which variation is most suited.

  • Taulman nylon 618 is an industrial grade material. It is great for prototyping but also for end products. Basically, what sets nylon 618 apart, is it’s excellent layer bonding if printed at 245°C and all the other settings are set appropriately. Also, nylon 618 does not emit any fumes. What might look like fumes, is water evaporating during printing. This type of nylon can be machined after printing and can also be used as the material for casting molds since it is possible to 3D print a very high quality, chemical resistant, and airtight object. Note: Glass and aluminum surfaces are not suited as print beds for nylon 618. Instead, a rougher or fibrous material like unfinished wood or Garolite should be used. Here is a list of detailed usage guidelines and material specifications.
  • Taulman nylon 645 is an improved version of nylon 618. Although mostly identical, nylon 645 has even more tensile strength and even better layer bonding. It is a translucent material unlike nylon 618, which is opaque. Here is a list of detailed usage guidelines and material specifications.
  • Taulman Bridge nylon is a less costly version of nylon 645 spec nylon. Developed following the requests of a wide range of customers, Bridge nylon still meets certain desired characteristics such as excellent tensile strength, better first layer adhesion, affordability, reduced water absorption, opacity and reduced shrinkage. Click here for a list of detailed usage guidelines and material specifications.

General nylon 3D Printer Filament Properties:

  • Primary benefits are high strength, durability, and flexibility
  • Ideal for mechanical components, structural parts, gears and bearings, and dynamic loads
  • Tends to have a glossy finish
  • High durability
  • High flexibility
  • Not soluble
  • Can by recycled
  • For food safety, refer to manufacturer guidelines
  • General print temperature range is 220°C – 260°C
  • Must be dried before 3D printing
  • Some shrinkage during cooling
  • Heated bed at 50°C – 100°C recommended
  • Printing difficulty is moderate, requires fine-tuning of bed and nozzle temperature

Fasteners

From 3DPrinterHut, Reprap Wilson ii 3D Printer Nuts & Bolts Fasteners Set – Wilson2 Screw Full Kit, $35.49 (£27.67)

Package list:

M5 x 10mm machine screw 55
M5 t slot nut 55
M4 x 10mm machine screw 4
M4 x 20mm machine screw 4
M4 x 25mm machine screw 4
M4 hex nut 6
M4 lock nut 2
M3 x 10mm machine screw 12
M3 x 14mm machine screw 19
M3 x 25mm machine screw 6
M3 x 30mm machine screw 6
M3 x 60mm machine screw 2
M3 hex nut 22
M3 lock nut 5
M3 washer 10
M2 x 16mm machine screw 9
M2 hex nut 9
Wilson II Fasteners from 3DPrinterHut
Wilson II Fasteners from 3DPrinterHut

HTA3D supplies Tornillería para Wilson (Wilson fasteners), for €18.99, note not specifically Wilson II, so there will be some differences.They will supply a partial kit of the Wilson II,

Wilson II fasteners - HTA3D
Wilson II fasteners – HTA3D

which is missing, the following:

  • 2 x M3 x 60mm machine screw, These are used for the extruder
  • 9 x M2 x 16mm machine screw – These and M2 nuts for mounting end stops, 1 for servo mount, and 2 for LM2596 mount

How does that compare with a bulk purchase of T-nuts and brackets in the UK? The price is about the same for the brackets. A bulk of 100 T-nuts is about £11, see for example, Drop In T-Nut M3-M6 Thread For T-slot Aluminum Extrusion 2020 11×10.2mm, £11.59 for 100 x M5.

Aluminium

The price of extruded aluminium, in Bangkok, is about 40% of that in the UK, so you are looking at around £18, as opposed to around £40.

Again from 3DPrinterHut in China, on eBay, 1Set Wilson ii 3D Printer 2020 Aluminum extrusions Wilson2 T-slot Profiles, $61.78 (or $58.69 on offer) (£45.76)

Wilson II 2020 Aluminium Extrusion from 3DPrinterHut
Wilson II 2020 Aluminium Extrusion from 3DPrinterHut

For just £38 for 4 meters, in the UK, 2020 Aluminium Extrusion Slot 6 Profile 20mm x 20mm – 3D Printer & CNC – 20x20mm from wedo3dprinting. Or for £38.37, Aluminium Extrusion Slot 6 Profile 2020 20x20mm for CNC 3D Printer Jigs Frames from it_tech_uk.

However, I had some issues locating a supplier for 2020 aluminium.  I found a supplier behind MBK, in the Pathum Wan/Chula area, P.M. Metals & Tools LTD., Part., 163/2 Charoen Mueang Road, just off Banthat Thong Road (the number 73 bus passes within 50 m of the shop), which had some 2020 extruded aluminium at 750 baht for 6 meters. However the profile of the aluminium was not exactly correct, as it will not accept T-nuts, and uses regular M5 nuts instead, which would be fine but not perfect. The stress of a tightened nut would not be distributed so evenly, and over a lesser area. However, as the mantra is tighten, but not too tight, then these extrusions should suffice.

They also sell 2525, 3030 and 4040 and 4080, but not 2040.

The owner, Prachak, and his son (Ger) are very helpful and are interested in 3D printing projects.

Ban Mo was the only place that I found supplying the correct extrusion. One shop (Thai Robo Shop) on the second floor (south end of eastern corridor) of BanMoh Plaza had it at 250 baht a meter, and another in a parallel corridor (North end of Western corridor) for 200 baht. The first shop supplied inner brackets, bolts, T-Nuts and washers for 50 baht.

There is also another shop selling the correct extrusion, and it is along Banthat Thong Road. However, to date, I have been unable to locate it.

Cutting to length

However, getting it cut to the correct lengths is another matter. The shop that sells the 6m lengths, in Charoen Mueang, had a cutting machine.

I could attempt to cut it by hand, although I am reluctant to do so, as I think that the finish will not be terribly good.

I went to a local metal workers, where the guys offered to cut to length for 120 B$. However, an angle grinder was used, on a small jig. Predictably, upon cutting the first 500mm lengths, the finish was so rough, and the lengths were no equal that I cancelled the work. See the results here:

Unequal lengths
Unequal lengths
Laser cut ends
Laser cut ends
Poorly cut ends
Poorly cut ends
Unequal lengths and poorly cut ends
Unequal lengths and poorly cut ends

Another machine shop offered 200 B$, but again they had no visible cutter, so I was reluctant to destroy even more aluminium.

A machinist that looked very competent wanted 700 baht to perform the cuts, 100 baht per cut. This was almost as much as the aluminium had cost in the first place! Also, for 700 baht I can go to Charoen Mueang, purchase a new 6m length (with the incorrect profile) and get the pieces cut for free!

In the end I went to the shop in Charoen Mueang and got the pieces cut for 90 baht – however, the owner was there and took pity on me and did it as a favour. It is not a service that they wish to provide. However, he does stock 2020, albeit, as mentioned above, with an unusual profile.

I got the aluminium cut, in the following way:

Cutting the aluminium extrusion to length
Cutting the aluminium extrusion to length

1. To maintain a clean cut, at least at one end, I ensured that the 500 and 400 mm lengths were cut in such a way that the original laser cut, and finished, ends were part of the length – that is to say the cuts were measured from the ends, rather than from where the previous new cut had been.

2. The one meter length than had been badly cut in half had it’s two (approximately 498 mm) lengths cut down to 400 mm, whilst retaining the original laser cut and finished ends.

3. As it is not possible to obtain to 500 mm lengths from 1000 mm of aluminium, a 500 mm and a 400 mm length was taken from a 1000 mm length, with 100 mm as wastage. This was done for two lengths of 1000 mm.

4. The three 300 mm ends – two of them retained the original laser cut and finished ends. After the third “middle length” had been cut then a small simultaneous shaving was required of all three lengths to make them the same length.

Scaling up

As the design of the Wilson II is scalable (source: RepRapWiki – Category:Wilson)

…the design has a parametric build area, meaning it is relatively easy to scale the X, Y, and Z axis within reason.

I did wonder whether the extruded 2020 aluminium with the non-ideal profile, at 6 m  for 750 baht, would be a good idea, and what maximum size I could obtain.

Aluminium Extrusion Corner braces/brackets

In Ban Mo, ThaiRoboShop sells them (with 2 x M5 bolts, nuts and washers) for 50 baht. The corner shop, SangTaWan, (Ban Mo and Thip Wari Alley) sells them for 45 baht, and, in fact, the shop owner discounted them so that I got 6 for 240 baht.

2020 Aluminium corner bracket
2020 Aluminium corner bracket

On ebay:

Right Angle Inner Outer Bracket T-Nut Screw for 2020 Aluminum Extrusion Profile, £3.99 + Free for 4 pcs. (£5.39 for inner brackets) UK/EU only.

Threaded rods

From HTA3D, Kit de varillas para Wilson, (Rod kit for Wilson) €19.99, offers smooth and threaded rods.

Lead screws

The leadscrews required are:

  • T8 300 mm x 2

T8 lead screws (with a lead of 8 mm) are available individually, from HTA3D:

I looked around Ban Mo, and the prices were between B$400 – 450 for 300 mm.

On eBay, there are a number of cheap T8 leadscrews with a 8 mm lead:

However, an 8 mm lead is not as precise as a 2 mm lead. From Accuracy vs Precision and Threaded Rod vs Leadscrews in 3D Printers:

In general, FFF/FDM printers use relatively infrequent, small, precise movements on the z-axis and consistent, fast movements on the x and y axes. A single start leadscrew with the tightest pitch possible (highest thread density, smallest pitch) is generally going to be your best bet for the z-axis, while you may or may not need something a little steeper to get the speeds you’d like from your x and y axes. While this may seem somewhat arbitrary given the precision of movement you can get from a stepper motor, an important factor to remember here is torque.

A more aggressive leadscrew will require more torque to drive. We have one kit printer we bought a couple years ago that has an overly aggressive multi-start leadscrew for the z-axis. The small motors included in the kit do not have the torque required to reliably start upward movement of the carriage, leaving it sitting there skipping steps until the carriage is given a little upward nudge to get it going (no, it’s not a lubrication issue or a driver that needs turning up).

See also Would using a leadscrew with 1 or 2 mm lead, en lieu of 8 mm, result in a better printer?

So, a 2 mm lead is preferable to a 8 mm lead, as not only is less torque required, but also more precise movements are obtainable.

There is a leadscrew with a 1 mm lead available, but it is much more expensive than the leadscrew with the 2 mm lead, T8 Pitch 1mm / 2mm Lead 1/2/4/8mm Rod Stainless Lead Screw + brass color nut, £9.02/11.78 for 300/400 mm respectively. Note that from this supplier, the cost of the leadscrew with either a 1 mm and 2 mm pitch/lead, is the same.  A lead of 1 mm is probably a bit excessive. Somewhat bizarrely, from the same supplier, lijieqion_0, there is a significantly cheaper leadscrew with a 1 mm lead:

It is unclear why it is cheaper – is it because the nut is copper and not brass? Or is one Acme/Trapezoidal and the other square?

It was worth noting that in both of the above cases, 600 mm length is available (see Copper Nut with T8 Lead Screw Dia 8MM Pitch 1mm Lead 1mm Length 600mm, £10.06), so you could cut one length in half for two 300 mm lengths. However, the lengths would be shorter to 300 mm, and you would need to purchase an additional brass/copper nut, which would add £1 to the cost, thereby resulting in a saving of only £1… isn’t it worth the additional £1, to save you having to cut it?

Anti backlash nuts

Anti Backlash nut
Anti Backlash nut

Smooth Rods

The smooth rods required are:

A total of 2380 mm are required.

From HTA3D, Kit de varillas para Wilson, (Rod kit for Wilson) €19.99, offers smooth and threaded rods, but these are M8,  and not used in the Wilson II, only the Wilson RS and TS. The 8 mm bars are also available individually, Varilla lisa calibrada diámetro 8 – Cortada a medida.

M10, 10 mm bars are available individually, from HTA3D. Two of each are required:

On Amazon, ARBUYSHOP 6pcs/set Reprap 3D Printer Wilson ii M10 Smooth Rods Wilson2 OD 10mm smooth rods,Linear Shaft Optical Axis chrome plated, but currently they are out of stock.

On AliExpress, 6pcs/set Reprap 3D Printer Wilson ii M10 Smooth Rods Wilson2 OD 10mm smooth rods,Linear Shaft Optical Axis chrome plated, $54.34

On eBay, there is this kit from China, 1set Reprap 3D Printer Wilson ii M10 Smooth Rods Wilson2 OD 10mm Linear Shafts, US $54.34 (£41.96), free postage. Whilst expensive, it does come with the important note:

Description:

Our 10mm Linear Motion Precision Ground Hardened Steel Shafts are perfect for RepRap 3D Printers when used in conjunction with linear bearings. For smooth and wear resistance motion linear bearings require linear shafts with a Rockwell Hardness greater than ~52Hrc. Most Stainless Steel Rods are not suited for linear motion applications, because of this we have sourced  Gcr15  Hardened Steel Shaft with a Rockwell hardness of 60Hrc.
This set is for wilson ii use. If you need other parts for wilson ii printer use, please search them in our store or contact us. we are more than happy to help.
Guide Length: 370mm/500mm /320mm
Diameter: 10mm
Material:Gcr15
Hardness:60+-2
Grade:G6
Roundness:<0.01
Surface finish: 0.3-0.5
Straightness:0.15/1000mm
Smooth rods for Wilson ii Frame:  2 x 370mm / 2 x 500mm / 2 x 320mm

These are precision linear rods meant for automation use, and have a hard chrome finish.

Package:
*6 pieces smooth rods including 2pcs 370mm / 2pcs 500mm / 2pcs 320mm length(10mm Diameter).

Sourcing the rods separately

In Ban Mo, Bangkok, the prices were 180(?)/250 to 280 baht/m, so half price the cost of the rods from HTA3D. However, it is not clear if these are smooth/chromed stainless steel. They certainly are not hardened. However, I managed to get 3 meters for 600 baht (i.e. 100 baht per 500 mm – even though the rods were priced at 120 baht for 500 mm and 250 baht for 1000 mm (note that it was cheaper, by 10 baht to buy in two 500 mm lengths than one 1000 mm length), from the shop, SangTaWan, on the corner of Ban Mo and Thip Wari Alley, which is stocked full of servos and rods, etc. I checked all of the rods with both new and second hand linear bearings to ensure smoothness in movement. I got two 500 mm lengths and two 1000 mm lengths. Even though I only required approximately 2380 mm in total, I figured that the additional 500 mm could be used for the P3Steel, as one of the M10 rods is slightly defective and the bearing sticks about two thirds of the way up, see P3Steel from Poland – A tale of despair, dismay and woe (however, upon investigation, that is an M8 rod, and so the M10 is not of any used on the Z-axis – 500 mm lengths of M10 are used on the Y_axis though, so the spare 500 mm length could be useful).

Cutting the rods to size

As the rods were in one meter lengths, I would end up with  260 mm and 360 mm waste cuts. In order to preserve, at least one nicely machined end, the rods will be cut in from the ends, thusly:

Cutting the steel rods to length
Cutting the steel rods to length

Alternate cutting scheme

In order to reduce the wastage, here is an alternative cutting scheme. Given that

  • X-axis steel rods range from 340 mm to 390 mm
  • Z- axis steel rods are fixed at 320 mm

For the X-axis:

At minimum 340 x 2 = 680 mm

680 + 320 = 1000 mm – this is too close as some length is lost in the cutting process

At maximum 390 x 2 = 780 mm – leaving only 220 mm of length which can not be used elsewhere.

For the Z-axis:

320 x 2 = 640 mm

1000 – 640 = 360 mm

So, one X-axis rod and two Z-axis rods could come from one 1 m length.

The remaining rod, at 360 mm, taken from the other 1 m steel rod would leave 640 mm which could make two more Z-axis rods.

To allow for length loss in the cutting process the lengths of the two X-axis rods could be 355 mm, and still be within spec.

The only problem is that the cut ends would not be smooth and may damage the LM10UU bearings.

Other sources

In Hornchurch, UK, these rods are cheap, 10mm Stainless Steel Round Bar Rod 1000mm Long Grade 316, £3.50, but again, it is not clear if these are smooth/chromed stainless steel.

On eBay, steel rods seem to be rather overpriced:

Smooth rods being the point to note. For 8 mm:

For 10 mm:

Useful link, see Reddit – Good source for M10 Smooth Rods for Wilson II Build?

Help with Wilson II

Linear Bearings

The LM10UU linear bearings are available individually, from HTA3D:

However, they are much cheaper on eBay, as I had obtained 4 for £2.20 when building my P3Steel:

One upgrade could be to use L10LUU:

Instead of two LM8UU, one LM8LUU is often the better choice.
Instead of two LM8UU, one LM8LUU is often the better choice.

The cheapest are about twice the price of the L10UU, see 1Pcs LM10LUU Long Linear Motion Ball Bearing Bushing 10mm Shaft DIY CNC Motion, US $2.49 (£1.93)

Another good upgrade, which again cost about twice as much as L10UU, would be to 12 Igus Drylin tribological LM10UU replacements, or LM10LUU (however, the LM10LUU equivalents are hard to find, if they exist at all).

Igus Drylin RJ4JP 01-10 (LM10UU)
Igus Drylin RJ4JP 01-10 (LM10UU)

Some examples of these LM10UU bearings, called Igus Drylin, are:

Chinese copies

LM8UU

Power Supply

In Ban Mo, street trader, the power supplies costs were a lot less than the UK:

  • 20A 400 baht,
  • 30A 600 baht,
  • 40A 800 baht

Stepper Motors

RAMPS

RAMPS, 1300 baht, Thai Robo shop. Considerably more than your average Chinese supplier on eBay.

Fasteners

T-nuts

M5 x 10 mm

A lot of these are required, 55 at least:

Advertisements

One thought on “Building a Wilson II in Bangkok”

Leave a Reply

Fill in your details below or click an icon to log in:

WordPress.com Logo

You are commenting using your WordPress.com account. Log Out / Change )

Twitter picture

You are commenting using your Twitter account. Log Out / Change )

Facebook photo

You are commenting using your Facebook account. Log Out / Change )

Google+ photo

You are commenting using your Google+ account. Log Out / Change )

Connecting to %s