Rigol DS1052e and DS1054z

Preamble

Some past eBay prices, 100 MHz hacks and silent fan treatment…

Featured image from Rigol DS1054Z vs DS1052E Oscilloscopes – Comparison & Review.

See also

Past Prices

DS1052e

DS1102e

DS1054z

Silent Fans

Solutions:

  1. Replace fan
  2. Silicon fan mounts
  3. Reduce fan speed:
    1. 50 Ω resistor to slow fan – not recommended
    2. PWM controller – better alternative
  4. Heatsink on 7905 regulator

The stock fan is a GLOFN GFA06015H12H, specifications:

  • 60 x 60 x 15mm
  • 5500rpm at 12 V DC
  • Airflow is 34.2m3/h (20.12 CFM)
  • 36.5dB of noise.

A 80×80 mm fan can be fitted, with a suitable shroud.

Note: Add a heatsink to the 7905…!

Note: Removing the plastic shroud of the power inlet is difficult. From Rigol DS1052E DSO ~ Fan Modification:

But, by far, the most difficult part is pulling the case clear of a plastic bezel surrounding the IEC power socket. Even the official Service Guide advises: “Remove the cover at the power socket forcibly” (Page 5-4).

From Rigol DS1052E silenced:

* Unscrew the power socket screws, even though the article says not to. The screw nuts on the other side are loose, so I had to keep unscrewing at different angles and with the screws upside down as well, until they finally came loose

* Remove the plastic cover and then remove (and discard or save somewhere) the grey plastic bracket underneath the plastic cover around the power socket area. This bracket looks like it was put in place to prevent users from opening the cover, and serves no other purpose that I could see

* Remove the metal cover

* Locate the loose nuts by shaking the unit gently at different angles until they fell out

* Reassemble the loose nuts (with the attached spacers facing the cover) and screws on the power socket. The cover can now slide over the screws with no problem, since the grey plastic bracket is no longer in the way. And future opening and closing will be very easy.

and

What worked for me was to put a big screwdriver – the bigger the better – through the loop next to the socket then so that it was sticking out past the corner of the plastic casing. ie you have a bar running from left to right of the photo, through the plastic loop in (4b) then gently pulling the screwdriver on the right side of the loop toward the camera, levering on the back corner of the case, the casing can be eased over the socket. Once you have the case over the front edge of the socket you can stop pulling on the screwdriver. The only difficulty is that it is awkward to move the case backward while pulling the screwdriver toward you so something to pry the case backwards sometimes helps – I used a plastic spudger. I’ve removed the back a number of times without problems or marking anything. Note when putting the back back on if it has come off, the the plastic oval part must be fitted the correct way around – it’s wedge shaped.

I removed the on off switch with a dining knife through the horizontal slot in the side.

Links

100 MHz hack

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