A web scraper for the Area51 site – to obtain the statistics and save as CSV format – is also included.
Available on GitLab: testkins/se3dp_plotterscraper
After researching this answer to Why don’t 3D printer heads use ceramic inner walls? I found an interesting little video for an hotend upgrade – which, despite the name, uses PTFE lining…
Following on from Double the volts… double the fun! here is a nice little tip that I came across to avoid your 3D printer going up in flames…
Replace both polyfuses (PTC) (
F2) in a RAMPS 1.4 board with car blade fuses 5A and 10 or 15 A respectively. The polyfuses,
F1 (MF-R1100) is rated to 11 A 16 V,
F2 (MF-R500) is rated to 5A 30 V
It should be noted that in subsequent versions of the RAMPS boards (1.5 and thereafter), the fuses are SMD (and may also require replacing).
For a long while I have wanted a Taurino Power 24 volt controller, and although they seem hard to find now, there is the Eruduino, which seems to be a reasonable clone…
Using 24 volts over 12 volts means, basically, less (half) current, thinner wires (or less likely to burn out the existing wires), less stress on connectors (where most fires start).
I’d just love to go there to visit and take the tour.
They have Open Wednesdays (Otevřená středa).
After seeing this 24 V SMPS on eBay, Protek 24V 8.4A 200W SMPSU Switch Mode Power Supply Medical Grade PSU PM200-14C, I thought it would be initially useful for a 24 V 3D printer. Then I thought it would be handy for a ±12 V supply for a synth… man, the possibilities are freaking endless..!
There are an awful lot of cheap MK8 extruders, and their derivatives (close and not so close), out there – with different number of parts, different bolts (lengths and thicknesses), screws, washers, varying arm designs (enclosed or non-enclosed bearings), etc.. However, not many assembly instructions. So I’ll ramasser a few different assembly pictures here.
This post was inspired by How to build the extruder motor holder for the Kossel Mini