Replace your RAMPS fuses


Following on from Double the volts… double the fun! here is a nice little tip that I came across to avoid your 3D printer going up in flames…

Replace both polyfuses (PTC) (F1 and F2) in a RAMPS 1.4 board with car blade fuses 5A and 10 or 15 A respectively. The polyfuses, F1 (MF-R1100) is rated to 11 A 16 V, F2 (MF-R500) is rated to 5A 30 V

It should be noted that in subsequent versions of the RAMPS boards (1.5 and thereafter), the fuses are SMD (and may also require replacing).

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Double the volts… double the fun!


For a long while I have wanted a Taurino Power 24 volt controller, and although they seem hard to find now, there is the Eruduino, which seems to be a reasonable clone…

Using 24 volts over 12 volts means, basically, less (half) current, thinner wires (or less likely to burn out the existing wires), less stress on connectors (where most fires start).

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Dual rail 12 volt supply from 24 volt SMPS


After seeing this 24 V SMPS on eBay, Protek 24V 8.4A 200W SMPSU Switch Mode Power Supply Medical Grade PSU PM200-14C, I thought it would be initially useful for a 24 V 3D printer. Then I thought it would be handy for a ±12 V supply for a synth… man, the possibilities are freaking endless..!

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LED strips from fluorescent tubing


I was given a number of LED strips from flourescent tubes the other day. After a quick look, I noticed that the 36 LEDs were grouped in bunches of 12. I went an got a 12 V 2 A LED power supply, but only some of the LEDs flashed. So, more investigation was required…

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Feeling the need to clamp


After watching Balance Charging: Can you parallel charge?, I realised that I needed a clamp meter. But which one?

I had already purchased a UNI-T UT71D DMM, see Choosing which Multimeter to buy, and I was very happy with it, so the UNI-T clamp meter seemed a logical choice.  Everyone seems to have the UNI-T 210E. However, there are a myriad of other options.

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