Aukey CB-H19

Preamble

I bought this on eBay, Aukey USB 3.0 (7 port hub) Mains Powered 3 Charging Ports 2.4amps, £9.16+2.97

I purchased this to use in conjunction with the Nanotech dual USB 3.0 express card, which was struggling to provide the current for a 5TB Backup Plus USB drive, with the associated over heating issues. I hoped that the external PSU would alleviate the power draw and over heating issues experienced with the NanoTech ExpressCard. See ExpressCards on Santa Rosa MacBook Pro for more details about the overheating issue.

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Orico H4013-U3

Preamble

I bought this 4 port USB 3.0 hub in Fortune for 590 baht (from Orico Thailand it was 690 baht). It is a plastic hub, no screws, no way of opening it up to see what is inside.

I purchased this to use in conjunction with the Nanotech dual USB 3.0 express card, which was struggling to provide the current for a 5TB Backup Plus USB drive, with the associated over heating issues. I hoped that the external PSU would alleviate the power draw and over heating issues experienced with the NanoTech ExpressCard. See ExpressCards on Santa Rosa MacBook Pro for more details about the overheating issue.

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Another fake Logitech mouse receiver?

Preamble

I picked up another Logitech mouse, M185, but this this with a different receiver. This receiver looked like the new Unifying receiver in shape, with the embossed “logi” logo, but without the Unifying logo.

Then I got an M238.

Finally I got an M215, which had a Unifying receiver inside it!!!!. I was also given a M545, which had the thinnest Unifying receiver that I have ever seen.

Also M331, which is Unifying ready, and M330C/M330 (both for 10 baht each)

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Logitech Unifying receiver – originals, fakes and much much more

Preamble

This was originally under the blog, Dell WK636p keyboard dongle.

This is compatible with the Jetson Nano, apparently, according to the Jetson Nano forums, see Jetson (Nano) compatibility below.

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M.2 adapters

Preamble

USB flash sticks/drives whatever, everyone want one, and a big one (128 GB +). However, to run an OS from, they are not much use (unreliable, no TRIM, limited lifetime), see Running OSX of USB 3.0.

Much better and cheaper, is an SSD drive, be it 3.5″, 2.5″ internal or external. These can be used as an OS disk sans problèmes, with none of the disadvantages listed above.

However, these are quite large, compared to a USB stick. Also, an external will have a slower interface that using an internal SATA3. Likewise, an internal can’t quickly be connected to another computer via an external USB, unless you have a USB to SATA cable.

However, most manufactures will have a M.2 equivalent of their 2.5″ internal SATA SSD drives. Now, an M.2 SSD can be put into a small-ish external USB-C enclosure, as well as an internal 2.5″ SATA enclosure. The best of both worlds… you can take your internal 2.5″ SSD out, pop out the M.2 SSD and pop it into a small USB device to carry about, with no real loss of performance, if you use a USB 3.x port.

In short:

  • Instead of getting a USB flash drive, think about getting an M.2 SSD and USB-C adapter.
  • Instead of getting an 2.5″ SSD drive, think about getting an M.2 SSD and 2.5″ SATA adapter.

That said, it is then a massive headache to get the correct enclosure matched to the correct M.2 SSD (SATA vs NVMe).

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How to test a game controller on Windows 10

Preamble

The usual organisation of control panels is seriously messed up on Windows 10. Where there used to be a control panel for Printers and other devices in Windows 7, which would show any USB game controllers, now the Devices control panel is virtually useless. To get to the Devices and Printers dialog, you have to scroll to the bottom of the Bluetooth and other devices dialog and then click on Devices and printers link under Related settings.

Nice move Micro$oft, adding more clicks to achieve the same thing. What wizards you are!

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