Vaping – Box Mods

Preamble

Following on from Vaping, why not build your own Mod?

UK Suppliers

Essential reading

Safety with Mechanical/Unregulated mods: A Beginner’s Guide to Your First Mechanical Mod

Useful videos

Box Mods

Arduino Based

Projects with code and schematics

Also ran – No code

STM32

Other

DNA

These are self made, LiPo 3S powered devices, although they can take 18650 batteries. They use a series of pre-assembled, and programmed, boards from Evolv and use the eScribe software to customise them. PDF for DNA 200: dna200

From DJLsb Vapes: See Evolv DNA60, DNA250, DNA167 Full Review DNA Mod Giveaway and Escribe Tutorial

DNA75

From DJLsb Vapes: See Evolv DNA 75 C Full Review with eScribe and Theme Editor Tutorial – DJLsb Vapes

DNA40

From DJLsb Vapes: See Evolv DNA 40 Complete Guide and Review

DNA200

This is the first video. From DJLsb Vapes: See Evolv DNA 200 Full Review + TC Charts + Power Charts + EScribe Software Tutorial + Extras – Board review, not mod review 200w 3 cell in series 3 18650, 2 cells gives 133W. Only does 100 W out of the box, required firmware from eScribe. use 200W to ramp up and then use temp control thereafter – don’t vape constantly at 200W. 510 connector is grounded through the case.

Temp control graph, power output graphs. eScribe sets up two sets of properties:

  • Battery’s Wh and Charge curves, and;
  • Case thermal (TC) properties – ventilation, insulation, material (printed, plastic, ABS, Aluminium)

Points covered in the video, from @16:25:

Review
  • Buttons (Up/Down)
  • Micro USB charging port
  • Buttons wired to the pins on the board
  • Quick display explanation (can be ignored)
  • @18:43 – Set to defaults (Upload settings)
  • Initial question – new coil
  • Default display explanation
  • Nickel temperature control by default
  • Up/Down buttons changes power
  • Serial Number and name of the board, by holding power down button down
  • Power increments, configurable
  • Max power, configurable
  • Locked – up and down buttons held down
  • Profiles
  • Locked – fire button x 5
  • Need to lock the resistance, else the board calculates its own resistance. When locked the temperature will not be consist, but makes for a more convenient vape.
  • Normal and Stealth – Fire and down buttons held
  • @25:43 From the locked screen, hold up and down. This gives you temperature control 200F-600F (10F increments), or turn off. Below 200F switches to °C 100°C-300°C (5°C increments)
  • Screen rotation – off by default, can configure on in eScribe and flip the buttons
  • Normal and Charging state
  • Charging (shows voltage, current and percentage charge)
  • Vape while charging
  • Maximum charge 1A. Current reduces when battery nears completed charge (VapourShark DNA has 2A)
Software Tutorial
  • @29:56 Firmware links, evolvapor.com
  • eScribe software – Windows only
  • Connecting to the board
    • Default name “Evolv DNA200”
  • Bricking – you can always manually install the firmware again. When bricked, sometimes eScribe doesn’t recognise the device, but you can reinstall te firmware (not sure how).
  • Help
  • @38:45 – General Tab
    • Download/Upload settings
    • Custom Profiles
      • Custom screens:128×32 pixels, B/W
      • Profile Settings: Temperature/Material/Power/Pre-heat
      • Load/Save/Copy profile
      • Atomiser Analyser
        • Temp reading until you set the thermal calibration
      • Custom materials –
        • profile curves (.CSV)
        • @42:53 – Steam Engine – creates material property curves
        • @44:36 – Load curve into eScribe
        • TCR numbers – Temperature coefficient number, instead of curves, i.e. 0.00092 for stainless steel 316L
  • @47:26 – Themes Tab
    • Custom screen
    • New Coil
    • Lock clicks (x5)
    • Kanthal
    • Temperature protected
    • Return to researcher
    • Battery Meter
      • Select which screen display the battery
    • Look and feel
      • Watt Increments (for both Press and Hold)
  • @54:15 – Screen Tab
    • Flip screen
    • Errors
    • Battery Cells displayed
    • Brightness
      • Fades too…
      • idle/charger
      • Time
        • Active
        • Idle
        • Fade In
        • Fade Out
  • @57:20 – Mod Tab
    • Charge mode
      • Maximise puffs
      • Charges
    • Power Limit (100 -> 200 W). For 2 x 18650 use 130 W
    • Manufacturers Settings
      • Battery
      • Number of Cells
      • Capacity (Watt-Hour)
        • Watt-Hour calculator
      • Cell soft cutoff
      • Discharge Profile
      • Battery Analyser (recommended!!!)
        • Takes a long time
      • Electrical profile
        • Mod resistance
      • Mechanical Profile
        • Up/Down flip
      • Thermal Profile
        • Shape
        • Material
        • Ventilation
  • @1:03:12 – Research Tab
    • Data Acquisition
      • Usage, etc.
    • Experimental Setup
  • @1:03:33 – Uploading a fully pre-configuration
  • @1:04:55 – Device Monitor
    • Battery
      • Charge
      • USB Power,
      • Voltage,
      • current
      • Pack
      • cells
    • Puff
      • Power
      • Current
      • Voltage
      • Temperature
    • Statistics
      • ECig Stats – statistics application
    • Controls
      • Record
      • Pause/Save graph
      • Trigger puff
      • Set power
      • Set temp
      • Diagnostics – USB recovery charging, for dead battery
      • Reset statistics
Analysis
  • Temperature Graphs
  • Power graphs – The DNA200 is an accurate board. Each mod is a different device, with different thermal properties.
  • Batteries Sony VTC5 or LG HB6
Conclusions
  • Mods review
  • Not for beginners
  • 200W good for a fast ramp up
  • Moans
    • Should not have a constant watt display – should only use temperature control
    • Steam engine is more accurate, but the TCR gives a better vape
    • Upload Settings should be Download Settings
    • No screen issues
    • Wismec DNA died –  whilst using battery analyser, board just died
    • +/- buttons should not be inscribed
    • 2A charging should be enabled – requires separate charge board. I prefer 0.5C (<1C charging) it is better to be patient than have LiPo fires
    • OSX version to be released, as is Linux

DNA250

There are a number of DNA250 mods. From DJLsb Vapes: See Vaporized Nomads Boss3000 DNA250 Full Review – DJLsb Vapes. See also Reply to DJLSB’s BOSS 3000 Review

Comes with a varitube 510 connector, big throw. Charge 3S 1800 mAh – 1.5C Charge rate.

Power 1-250W. Evolv’s DNA 200 boards can die for no reason. eScribe won’t connect.Temp coeffs off for Ni200 (should be 0.00620), SS 316/316Land Ti are slightly off. No temperature control in NiCr.

Pros:

  • Well made
  • Rounded edges
  • Magnets are strong
  • Engraving
  • Varitube 510
  • MiTech switch

Cons:

  • Customer service – communication
  • One year warranty
  • PRICE, overpriced at $400-500
  • Can’t change LiPo, no plug, directly soldered
  • Plus and Minus buttons rattle – should use sticky foam
  • MiTech switch rattle
  • Inaccurate temp
  • Ni60-80 do nothing
  • Will no connect to eScribe

To buy the chip set:

The DNA 250 is the NEW power regulated board from Evolv. It features Evolv’s patented Wattage Control, Temperature Protection, Preheat, Digital User Controls, OLED Screen, Onboard Buttons and Synchronous Rectification for maximum battery life and minimal heat generation. The DNA 200 runs from a 3 cell lithium polymer battery, and features cell-by-cell battery monitoring and integrated balance charger. The USB port and Evolv’s EScribe software can be used to customize or monitor the user experience. It is the most advanced personal vaporizer controller ever made. The DNA 200 is vaping down to a science.

  • 250w of power
  • USB 2a balance charger inbuilt
  • Firmware upgradable
  • Input voltage 9-12.6vdc so 3 high quality 18650’s in series or a 3s Lipo. Dual 18650 is also possible
  • Comes configured for Ni200 but any wire can have it’s TCR entered
  • JST-XH 3S balance plug included but needs to be attached by end user
  • On board replacable fuse, manufacturer Schurter , part number 3413.0332.22
  • Evolv have a companion program for windows PC’s called Escribe to configure, monitor and modify the operation of your DNA 250.

Dripp3D DNA kits

Check out Dripp3D‘s kits:

  • DNA 250, £95 + £17.28 (LiPo 18650 orNanoTech 3S 25-50C 1300 mAh) – On Dripp3D’s website
  • DNA 200, £90 + £17.28 (LiPo 18650 or NanoTech 3S 25-50C 1300 mAh)
  • DNA 75, £60 + £17.28
  • 1550P PWM or Unregulated £45/35 + £17.28 (2 x 18650) (Series or Series/Parallel)
  • 1590A PWM or Unregulated £42/35 + £17.28 (2 x 18650) (Series or Series/Parallel)
  • 1590B PWM or Unregulated £50/42 + £17.28 (Both 3 x 18650 or 2×26650) (Series or Series/Parallel)
  • 1590G PWM or Unregulated £45/35 + £17.28  (2 x 18650) (Series or Series/Parallel)

Basic Box Mods

These box mods do not use a microcontroller.

The most basic – using a MOSFET (3034 or 3813)

YouTube, from Find My Vapes, see How to Build Unregulated Dual 18650 Box Mod, read also How to Build Unregulated Dual 18650 Box Mod with MOSFET – A very simple mod box, with no microcontroller. It is a good base to start with, to build an Arduino controlled box mod on to. Uses:

  • Hammond 1590G case
  • IRLB3034PBF MOSFET N CH MOSFET, 40V, 195A, TO-220AB
  • 15kΩ resistor
  • 2x15A resettable fuses – wired in parallel to give 30A
  • battery sled – wired in parallel
  • 510 connector
  • Standard firing switch
  • Master on/off switch
  • SWG16 – flex, multi strand – high current: battery, 510, and MOSFET
  • SWG20 – flex
  • 2 x 18650 batteries
  • 4 x magnets

Use a step drill bit to drill the holes.

Dual-18650-Wiring-Diagram
Dual-18650-Wiring-Diagram

The next step – using OKR T10

YouTube, from Find My Vapes, see How to Build OKR Box Mod Tutorial, see also How to Build an OKR Box Mod Tutorial, OKR allows voltage adjustment between 3.4 and 6 volts, it is used instead of MOSSFET. Uses:

  • OKR T10
  • Hammond 1590G case
  • battery sled – wired in series – keystone dual
  • 510 connector
  • Firing switch
  • 200 Ohm potentiometer
  • Master on/off switch
  • 1 kohm resistor (pins 1 and 3 OKR)
  • 220 ohm series with pot
  • zener 5.6V diode
  • SWG 20 wire
  • magnets 1/4″x1/8″
  • Epoxy
OKR T-10 Wiring DIagram
OKR T-10 Wiring DIagram

Note: 0.5 Ohms minimum coil resistance.

Note: No reverse battery protection but does have low voltage protection

On eBay:

More power – using OKL-T20

YouTube, from Find My Vapes, see How to Build OKL T20 Box Mod Tutorial, see also How to Build OKL T20 Box Mod Tutorial OKL T20, 110W 20A. In fact, the device is a OKL2-T20, from Murata, and handles 100W.

  • Input voltage is 4.5 to 14 volts.
  • Output voltage is (for our purposes) 3.5 to 5.5 volts.
  • Maximum output current is 20 AMPS.
  • Maximum output power is 100 watts.

The PDF is here, okl2-t20-w12, link. This mod has reverse battery protection, but appears to be lacking low voltage protection. Uses:

  • OKL T20 3.5-5.5V regulation
  • Battery sled – in series
  • 510 Varitube
  • Fire switch
  • 1kohm potentiometer
  • master on/off
  • P-FET – for reverse polarity protection, SUP75P03-07-E3, eBay: VISHAY, SUP75P03-07-E3, MOSFET, P CH, 30V, 75A, TO220AB, £3.82
  • 20k resistor
  • 1k43 resistor
  • magnet
  • SWG18
  • SWG24
OKL-T20-Wiring-Diagram
OKL-T20-Wiring-Diagram

 

More refined – using OKL2-T20

Basic circuit: Tinkering with the OKL2-T20 20A 110W dc/dc converter…

OKL2-T/20-W12N2 Schematic
OKL2-T/20-W12N2 Schematic

These are not cheap:

This is a very good review, OKL T20 Chip Review:

  • Input voltage is 4.5 to 14 volts.
  • Output voltage is (for our purposes) 3.5 to 5.5 volts.
  • Maximum output current is 20 AMPS.
  • Maximum output power is 100 watts.

Less refined – OKL2-T20

From Murata OKL2-T20 Wiring Diagram, no battery protection, but has an optional battery meter:

Murata OKL2-T20-W12N2C with ModMter
Murata OKL2-T20-W12N2C with ModMter

Another unregulated mod

From Low voltage protection in unregulated MOSFET box?MOSFET mod

MOSFET mod with voltmeter
MOSFET mod with voltmeter

With a USB charger

MOSFET mod with USB charger
MOSFET mod with USB charger

A raptor circuit from Mamu

From Tinkering with the Naos Raptor – 20A, 120W dc/dc converter…

Raptor circuit from Mamu
Raptor circuit from Mamu

Notes on firing MOSFETs

From GENUINE IRLB3813 MOSFET • 15kΩ DALE RESISTOR • BETTER THAN USUAL FET FOR BOX MOD:

Why are IRLB3813 MOSFETS better than IRLB3034 MOSFETS?

1. They’re less likely to burn out
2. They switch on way faster

First, let’s take a look at the gate to source voltage (Vgs). Having a lower Vgs gives you a wider margin between operate and damage levels. I’ve personally drained batteries down to 2.4V accidentally, at which point they would not even fire a coil. This is VERY VERY BAD. This is how you break a MOSFET and vent your batteries at the same time. CORRECTION – This is how you break an IRLB3034 which has a Vgs of 2.5V. Voltage at the gate of an IRLB3813 is 1.9V making it very difficult to damage with IMR batteries.

Second, look at those timing statistics! Trust me, the difference is noticeable even from across the room. Your friend is still tugging on his boat while you done went zero to one hundred real quick.

Ignore the Vds and the continuous drain current. Sure, the IRLB3034 shows 40V and 343A, and that looks all big and bad compared to the IRLB3813, but think about it… we will never want nor need anything delivering 30V 260A anywhere near our faces, let alone in our mouths. I guess the only perceivable con is that the IRLB3813 has a slightly higher drain to source resistance (Rds On). Not that the .45 mOhms difference would cause any noticeable voltage drop whatsoever, but with two of them in parallel, that literally cuts the resistance in half, just like adding a second coil to your atomizer.

IRLB3034 vs IRLB3813 MOSFET photo IRLB3034 vs  IRLB3813_zpsghkl7g74.jpg

Why should I buy your IRLB3813 MOSFETS when I can get two for a dollar from other vendors?

1. Ours are made in the USA.
2. It’s actually cheaper because you’ll have to keep replacing the clones which are guaranteed to break.

In my amateur DIY modding days, I bought several batches of cheap, clone MOSFETS and every single one of them failed within the first few months of use. I’m sure you can imagine the amount of time and stress of having to repair so many mods. When it comes to the real thing, there is NO COMPARISON. I’m going on two years using a single IRLB3813 in my box.

Not only do we guarantee genuine Infineon/International Rectifier IRLB3813 MOSFETS manufactured in the USA (not drop shipped from China like many, many vendors – not saying any names), we’re also throwing in a genuine Vishay Dale 1/4W 15kOhm metal-film resistor with 1% tolerance also made in the USA. These are not cheap components, especially compared to what’s readily available to you elsewhere. We’re not interested in minimizing expenses or delivering cheap knock-offs. We simply want you to have the MOST RELIABLE and HIGHEST QUALITY that you can find. We just don’t want you to make the same mistakes nor experience the same level of frustration that we’ve dealt with, along with many other DIYers and even trusted manufacturers (again, not saying any names).

Components

Case

Hammond 1590A/B, Sizes:

  • 1590A: 9.2*3.7*3.3 cm
  • 1590B: 11.1*6.0*3.1 cm

The Screen size of the DNA is 0.91” diagonal white OLED screen, 128×32 pixels. Dimensions (from Monochrome 128×32 I2C OLED graphic display):

  • Display area (mm) : 25 x 7
  • Panel Size (mm):30.00 × 11.50 × 1.45
  • Active Area (mm):22.384 × 5.584

So the cut out for the screen, on the pre-cut cases, for DNA boards, is not compatible with the 1.44″ SPI display, nor the 0.96″ colour OLED (21.744(W)x10.864(H)mm) (from Datasheet 128×64 OLED Module SPI 0.96″Graphic Displays,White on Black). An additional cut out would be required in the side of the case, rather than the edge. The cut out is for the 0.91″ display:

Case cut outs, from Stealth

Enclosure cut dimensions

On eBay,

For the case, lid and magnets:

3D Printed 18650 cell sled

Gaskets

Display

The cut out in the DNA case is for the 0.91″ display:

Switches

Fire button

Momentary contact

16 mm

 

12 mm

9 mm

Master on/off switches

19/20mm

Square

Slide

Fuses

The 15A fuses seem pricey (well, the shipping does),

and I wonder if it is possible to switch for PolyFuses, such as:

See How does a fuse blow at its current rating, regardless of voltage? and SAFETY FUSES FOR MECHS. and 15a Resettable Fuses

From RS, Bourns Surface Mount Resettable Fuse, 28V dc, £3.04  (£0.608 each)

Using fuses in parallel is an inherently bad idea, see Polyfuses in parallel for shorter trip time?, it is much better to use one correctly rated fuse. Also, polyfuses will not give the same safety once they have triggered. Better to use a traditional replaceable fuse.

5x20mm quick blow fuses

Automotive Fuses:

Further reading around the subject, as I still am not sure about which fuse type, and which holding and blow currents to use:

P-FET

For reverse polarity protection, PFET SUP75P03-07-E3:

OKR-T10

For regulated

OKL2-T20

For regulated and more power

MOSFET

For Unregulated

30K Resistor

This is for the MOSFET, Gate to GND. I don’t believe that this particular Vishay Dale resistor is actually required – any 15k resistor will do, as it is not current bearing

  • Vishay Dale 0.25W 15k

LiPo Sled

There are two types of contact:

  • spring; and;

    18650 2xCell Sled with springs
    18650 2xCell Sled with springs
  • metal springy tabs

    18650 2xCell Sledge with tabs
    18650 2xCell Sledge with tabs

 

The tabs are preferable as there can be a resistance (3Ω) associated with the spring, see The GhettoVape III, and also the spring can eventually break. Note that the tabs will need the bottom of the springy tab bent/curved inwards, towards the back of the enclosure, in order to prevent the bottom of the springy tab from tearing the 18650 cell’s plastic wrap (see How to Build Unregulated Dual 18650 Box Mod at @5:40:

Battery sled spring tab
Battery sled spring tab

On eBay:

4 cells

You can get them cheaper in auctions, I paid £0.56.

2 cells

1 cell

Note: Pay attention, some of the sleds come pre-wired with leads in a series or parallel configuration. It is best to get one without wires configured, so that you can choose to make a parallel or series sled, as you require.

Buck Booster Step up

USB connector

For charging, you will need a vertical mounted USB connector., for the connector to poke out of the side of the case, (assuming that you use a PCB flush against the side. These vertically mounted USB connectors (micro and mini) are not that common and are more expensive than the standard horizontally mounted connectors:

The mounting of the micro USB  connector in the Smok Alien mod, is a very good example of the strong and durable, through PCB, mounting technique, using a secondary piece of daughter PCB as extra strength, see SMOK Alien Kit Full Review + Firmware Upgrade Tutorial + Charts and Graphs – DJLsb Vapes at 41:38.

 

From RS

Common battery mistakes

From VAPING BATTERY SAFETY 101: 6 COMMON MISTAKES VAPERS MAKE WITH BATTERIES:

  1. No loose batteries – always use a case
  2. Reverse polarity protection – put the batteries in the correct orientation
  3. Use the right charger – you don’t want a high current charger (stick to 1A or below), and you need over charge protection
  4. Over discharge – don’t use the batteries to low, 3.8 V limit
  5. Too low resistance coils – stick to 0.2 A (gives a 21 A draw) or above (0.05ohms uses 84 A)
  6. Coils touching top cap – creates a short circuit

From LiPo: How low can you go? (voltage per cell)

a battery voltage of 3.7V/cell (unloaded) tells you that you have used 80% of the batteries capacity

Bottles

From UK

510 heatsinks

Balanced charger board

 

 

Advertisements

Leave a Reply

Fill in your details below or click an icon to log in:

WordPress.com Logo

You are commenting using your WordPress.com account. Log Out / Change )

Twitter picture

You are commenting using your Twitter account. Log Out / Change )

Facebook photo

You are commenting using your Facebook account. Log Out / Change )

Google+ photo

You are commenting using your Google+ account. Log Out / Change )

Connecting to %s